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Beautiful Bhutan
THE MOST PEACEFUL PLACE TO DE-STRESS HIGH IN THE HIMALAYAS
There was a time, not that long ago, when tourists knew nothing about the tiny landlocked kingdom of Bhutan located between India's craggy Himalaya Mountains and China and bordering on Nepal. And the Bhutanese knew nothing about the outside world until the 1970s. In this "last place on the roof of the world", about the size of Switzerland, is a country with approximately 700,000 people who have deep respect for their constitutional monarchy, their lives tied to religion (mostly Tantric Manayana Buddhism). Dzongs ( fortress-like monasteries) dot the pristine countryside, often perched precariously on hilltops. These days much has changed with TV dishes and cyber cafes present in even the most isolated areas.
CAN WE ALL MANAGE ON HAPPINESS
There has always been the philosophy that the Bhutanese don't have a 'Gross National Product" but rather "Gross National Happiness".
"Happiness is our wealth," my guide Yeshey Samdrup, told me at our first meeting in perfect English, his first language being Dzongka. He was able, intelligent, gentle, always punctual, helpful and polite. But often passive in decision making, a trait I found very endearing after years of being herded to sites I didn't want to go to.
TOURISM, THE NEW HAPPINESS
The sight of a Western woman dressed in 'odd' outfits and light coloured hair seemed to draw people to me, often trying their English which in most cases, was very good.
With luck, a friend in Darjeeling, put me in touch with his friend, Princesses, Khendum Dorji, the co owner of Chhundu Travel and Tours. She and her assistant worked their magic via email. Her list of clients reads like a who's who..Mick Jagger, The Maharaja of Jodphur, Donna Karan, author Amy Tan, actors Cameron Diaz and Kenneth Branagh etc..
Because I had stayed in Darjeeling for a few days, it was a most convenient starting point and that meant driving or in my case, being driven. The unpaved roads, hairpin twists and turns along the Himalaya Mountains, not only caused me some concern but also acute nausea. I had forgotten my high altitude pills. As we drove along the so-called highway in this isolated country, it gave me insight into the attempt to improve conditions. Hundreds of migrant Indian workers, both men and women (some with babies wrapped onto their back) were hacking away at the rocky mountains, piling boulders on the sides of the road, making it even narrower and temporarily more difficult to navigate.
What amazed me was with all this confusion, there wasn't a hint of road rage. Instead, a honk suggested to the car's drive in front to move over to the limited road shoulder. On- coming cars would either move to the constricted side space without careening down into the valley or hitting a cliff thus allowing us to pass and vice versa. I never got an answer about who has the right of way.
AH, THAT BORDER CROSSING AND BUREAUCRACY
Phuentsholing, the border city, immediately depicted the disparity of the two countries. The long main street divided only by a brick arch and wooden barrier, is India and Bhutan met and quickly separated. The main street of this border crossing was the template for the two country's differences. Just beyond the messy, heaps of garbage of the final stop inIndia, miraculously; just on the other side of this flimsy barricade was the sparkling clean streets of Bhutan. Same street, different sensibilities.
The Indian immigration/custom house where a visitor's visa must be stamped, is a dreary, dusty single un-air conditioned room. Bhutan's office was bright, the street seemed newly swept. The wait for the Indian official seemed endless. Finally in Bhutan, a few days later, I discovered the high Indian official forgot to re-enclose into my passport, a crucial exit permit from Bhutan, instead haphazardly leaving this important paper on his desk.
Then a perfect photo op. Partially hidden behind a doorway was a small boy, about five, He stared at me as though I was an alien from another planet. I couldn't resist and pointed to my camera. This finally provoked a smile; I snapped then showed him the digital photo. His shyness returned. It has become my favourite picture of the dozens I took throughout the trip.
BHUTAN IS A BEAUTY
My first introduction to the traditional and intricate hand carving and colourful paintings which I would see throughout the country.
TAKE THE HIGHWAY OR THE HIGH ROAD. OPT FOR THE FORMER
The nine hour drive to the capital, Thimphu from Darjeeling (179 km), was on awful roads. Just minutes late for the twice daily 1 1/2 hour road closures, we then spent our time at a temporary market place and truck stop where entrepreneurial vendors had set up stalls selling drinks and food. They chatted with Yeshey asking where I was from. So seldom had they seen a western woman, especially on her own, and from the frosty country, Canada, that soon I was greeted with nods of welcome and offers of their products, a gesture for my coming to Bhutan.
THIMPHU, A GLORIOUS CAPITAL
E
The angst and strum of the highway challenges were gone when we arrived in Thimphu, population 80,000. It's the world smallest capital and the only capital city without a single traffic light. Dusk was settling on this glorious mountainous aerie. Driving through the main street, I could still see in the twilight, intricately and elaborately painted facades on building cornices and window frames. Even gas stations and police boxes were decorated. But what also struck me was that there wasn't a high rise in sight. More explorations would have to wait until the morning as we were now headed to the unexpected elegant Amankora Hotel near Kuenga Chhoeling Palace.
The white washed plaster and dark teak and 'champ' wood (indigenous to Bhutan) detailing gave the building a very contemporary look although not out of place, due to the architects who had incorporated stone floors and traditional Bukari stoves in the public rooms.,The slight narrowing at the top and the covered open-sided walkway make it very temple-like. To some the large rooms seemed an oddity. The sleeping area flowed into the space with a double sink vanity, middle of the room oversized tub and separate shower. The loo is in an enclosed space.
RULES KEPT
One of the first sightings of the rigid rules of Bhutan, was with the specific dress code. Mandatory 'gho' and 'tego', are uniforms for men throughout the country. The ankle length robe-like one-piece coat/dress, is pulled up, tied with a belt, underneath is a white shirt with wide cuffs. The robe falls just below the knees meeting knee high stockings, usually argyles. When I tried one on, it took about 15 minutes to hike up and tie the outfit. I immediately saw the possibility of the 'gho' being the greatest bathrobes for winter nights in Canada. Price? $20.
Women look very elegant in their mandatory 'kira', a shapeless jacket which could be made in several patterns and fabrics, worn with long wrapped sarong skirts.
MIDNIGHT MADNESS
During the night I dreamed I was hearing the barking of hundreds of dogs. I would, next day, see hundreds of strays sleeping in masses in shady oasis during the midday heat, not taking any notice by pedestrians. There is talk about a sterilization program but, I was assured, certainly no chance of putting them 'down'.
Walking is the only way to see many of the city sites and its charm. First stop, the Weekend Market. With 93% of the population involved in agriculture, there were endless stalls.
Next . . . Punakha Dzong, a 17th century fortress considered one of the most beautiful in Bhutan. Being over 7000 feet above sea level, I wasn't prepared for the thin air. As I caught my breath at the entrance, two jolly, monks in red robes who were larger in girth than the usual slim Bhutanese, were having an animated humorous conversation. It was so picturesque, I asked if I could take their photo and they happily posed in the doorway.
Thimphu is a hiker's paradise and two Sydneysiders (Australians) staying at the Amankora Hotel, had walked three hours to Phajoding Monastery. At the end of the day each purchased a 'gho' which they wore to lunch. The locals giggled to see these very tall, athletic foreigners in national dress wearing hiking boots.
WHAT IS THAT 'THING' ON FOUR LEGS
The National Animal enclosure held the strangest looking animal I've ever seen. Takins, unique to Bhutan, still befuddle taxonomist. Hunched shoulders, large muzzles and eyes, small ears, thick golden wool with black on the under belly, a mix between a goat and an antelope with both sexes sporting horns. These huge but agile animals weighing up to 1000 kilograms, are said to be the source of the book, The Golden Fleece.
WONDERFUL SIGHT SEEING TREATS
More sights of the Textile Museum and Tashichho and Simtokha Dzongs left me quite exhausted, hungry and completely exhilarated.
FIREY BUT INTERESTING EDIBLES
After a fine dinner of very spicy prawn soup ( too spicy even for my table mates), stir fired beef with oyster sauce, steamed jasmine rice, yellow pork curry and a glass of local beer, I slept like those dozing dogs.
PERFECT PARO
Paro, 65km and two hours drive, is the second largest city but then with the only international airport. The roads were slightly better and also perfect for viewing isolated traditional houses, patchwork-like paddy fields and the rushing Paro River. Hydro electricity is a growing export.
Again unexpected was the exquisite 5 star, Uma Hotel. After a most effusive greeting by the front desk manager and a cup of spice tea, I was taken to my second floor room overlooking the clouded peaks clinging to the Himalayas. Built by traditionally trained Bhutanese artisans, there is no lack of modern conveniences or innovative design. The circular wood panelled restaurant with its floor to ceiling windows gives a panoramic variety of vistas. The rooms have incorporated finely hand painted frescoes above the bed and on the grounds, there's an Asian inspired spa with a menu of mega treatments. My time, so limited, it was only at the end of the day's sightseeing that I took an energetic, complimentary hour yoga class.
Once a watchtower, National Museum (Ta-Dzong), is located in this unique building. The 340 year old, 7 storey round building has more than 3000 artifacts covering over 1500 years of culture. The many narrow steps seemed perfect for the Bhutanese, but my somewhat larger size feet caused me to hesitate with each step.
Paro Dzong, one of the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture and Kyichu and Jambay Lhakhang temples date backs to the 7th century.
THE END
Of course, there are many more sights but with my 5 day visa restriction, I had to leave early the next morning for Mumbai. There I had one of the great recovering periods at the renowned and indulging, Taj Mahal Mumbai Hotel.
FAREWELL TO FLUTTERING FLAGS
But few memories could compare with the fluttering in the wind of the five colours of silk Prayer Flags in Bhutan. These banners are said to carry messages to the heavens. Hopefully my prayers will be answered and I'll return to the Land of the Thunder
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Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Mumbai , Tel 91 22 6665 3366
www.tajhotels.com
- Uma Paro Hotel P.O. Box 222 975 8 271597
Email info.paro@uma.como.bz
www.uma.como.bz
- Amankora Hotel, Thimphu
Near Keunga Chhoeling Palace, Upper Motithang
Tel 975 233133
Email Amankorares@amanresorts.com
www.amanresorts.com
- Chhundu Travel & Tours
Khendum Dorji
31 Norzin Lam P.O. Box 149
Thimphu, Bhutan
Tel 975 2 322595
Email chhundu@druknet.bt
BARBARA KINGSTONE , AN AWARD WINNING TRAVEL/LIFESTYLE WRITER. MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF AMERICAN TRAVEL WRITERS (SATW) AND CO- FOUNDER OF TRAVEL MEDIA ASSOCIATION OF CANADA (TMAC).
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