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With every monthly Enewsletter, this the 24th now reaching about 2350 recipients, it is so gratifying to hear from many readers who appreciate the subject, or the destination, restaurant, hotels and ancient sites.
Today’s letter isn’t new to Tel Avivians, but even though I like to think of myself as a latter-day Marco Polo, I did dismiss these genius but interesting entrepreneurial idea… Kiosks.
So it was with amazement that after several visits to Israel, I was intrigued by the wide boulevards always filled with a gaggle of people sitting and enjoying the national pass time, eating.
Never would I have guessed on my first trip, now many years ago, that this was not only a meeting place but also a destination with fine inexpensive cafes in a costly city. So here is my of ‘my take’ on a unique enterprise .
I look forward to hear about your likes, dislikes and other destinations that are of interest globally.
Reach us at BK@BARBARA3.COM
Barbara Kingstone
FEW OTHER COUNTRIES COMPEL ME TO RETURN
No matter how often I return to Israel, it is always like being a bride. There’s always something old that has just been unearthed, something amazingly new, some trend borrowed, as seen in the new and novel hotels and something always blue in the glorious sky and sea.
Life goes on in Tel Aviv at a hectic place for its 400,000 inhabitants who wouldn’t choose to live anywhere else. Why would they with the variety that life in T.A. offers: major cultural venues, truly fine cuisine, sports, music events, and the development of innovations, from pharmaceuticals to new technologies.
Given the outdoor lifestyle and great weather in this Mediterranean city, it’s not unusual to see locals multi tasking: walking, speaking on their cell, and eating, all at the same time.
THE BOULEVARD WHERE THERE’S TIME TO DREAM
Since Tel Aviv has many boulevards, there seems to be an unspoken mantra, never let a good piece of land go unused. Just as you stroll along Rothschild Boulevard, one of the unexpected, awesome experiences, is its stunning collection of white Bauhaus buildings, hence the moniker, ‘the White City’, now an UNESCO World Heritage site.
Here, the past meets the present as this wide area has become the epitome of noshing (snacking). Years ago, Tel Aviv certainly wasn’t considered a culinary centre. But times have changed and some very respectable restaurants can be found on this mid-road strip. Inexpensive meals, local veggie salads, small meals, pasta and sandwiches and the best coffee this self-declared scribe has discovered.
WHERE TO FIND MORE GREAT NOSHES
If it’s a snack that you need, there are many small, quaint, square 2 x 2 metre covered spaces that look as though they were put together by a few friends overnight. However, these kiosks serve unexpectedly good fare at the most inexpensive prices in this now very pricey city. Each owner has expanded these once grab and take-out places that now have tables and chairs, if you’re lucky you’ll find a seating area under the shade of a sprawling tree. These former ’huts’, are great examples of space well used.
SO CLEAN YOU CAN EAT OFF THE FLOOR
These spotlessly clean eateries all meet health department approval but share one caveat, ‘no alcohol’ .That’s where the best ‘cuppa ‘comes in. Kiosks aren’t new to locales and they serve a great cup of java.
ROTHSCHILD BOULEVARD IS THE MECCA FOR MANY
Named after Baron Edmond James de Rothschild who purchased land for the homeless Jewish people arriving on the shores of Israel after the Holocaust, Rothschild Blvd. and Herzel Street kiosks are known to have the best espresso! However, there are other favorites. On Lillienblum Street, another wide boulevard, kiosks popped up everywhere. Since the frenetic “cool City:” is filled with speeding motorcycles, scooters and several hundred cars with drivers seemingly unaware of the rules of the road, there are always conflicts. The streets are narrow and parking is beyond difficult often creating traffic juggernauts and arguments. Israelis are renowned for their opinions. “If there are two people, there are 6 opinions”, I was told.
SAME FACES, SAME PLACES, SAME ‘NOSHERS’, A KIOSK CULT
The user-friendly eating stops have created their own cults as locales where people who live nearby tend to have their breakfast, read their newspaper and gab with friends. It’s a kiosk cult. And now that the clever graffiti-covered kiosks have outdoor tables and chairs under a canopy of shady trees, they are habit forming. I tried to go for at least one snack a day at one of my favorites on Rothschild Boulevard where I made new friends. Of course politics seems always to be the major topic for discussion and then concentration on the food. Tel Avivians are demanding.
RELAX, CHAT, ENJOY
With windows on four sides of most kiosks, there are seldom line-ups and orders are taken and prepared in the blink of an eye. You can linger as long as you want with no problem about using your computer, or reading the daily news. Queues get longer at lunchtime as orders for take out pay the bills.
A FEW OTHER KIOSKS TO BE TRIED
Two small kiosks on Ben Gurion and Dizengoff Streets face each other. However, the savvy owners are smart and have different menus. One serves freshly squeezed veggie and fruit juices while the other has a larger menu. On Allenby and Rothschild, a once ugly duckling spot has been renovated and is now a glorious swan; actually it’s the most attractive of all the kiosks.
Nordau at Ben Yehuda Street has had a kiosk there for about 45 years. What are considered the best falafels are found here. But know there is always a waiting line and worth the wait.
At Rothschild Blvd. at Mazehhas Street, you’ll find an older stand with a large following of snack lovers (noshers) and it has become known for its fresh salads from locally grown produce.
Every small space has been maximized for a city that has become globally known for its after-hours clubs but during the day the kiosks’ business is booming. And that comes with a bonus: great ambiance, and a wonderful means by which to get to know the local people and their customs. This, after all, should always be the main focus of all travel.
Barbara Kingstone is a lifestyle/travel writer BK@BARBARA3.COM #telavivKiosks #israelstreetfood #chicshopsintelaviv #unhappytraveler. #barbara3 #luxurytravel
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